• Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing

    owning your own home is not easy. Especially if you are not a professional, you do not have complete knowledge, you are not so cleverly using the tool. And you are building the house for the first time. I think there are a lot of such entry-level masters. But do not blame them for mistakes. After all, the passionate desire to create and build simply does not give rest. Then they, like me, have to skip everything through personal experience. So, it happened when waterproofing the foundation with my own hands, which I did not start at the best moment. However, the true indicators of the correctness of certain actions is considered to be the situation when work is easy, fun and fast. On the other hand, the people already have a proverb - you go quieter, you will continue. And my story with a couple of bright photos will describe a pen test with all the failures and positive moments.

    The point of protecting the foundation from moisture

    Everything is clear, you will say. After all, the meaning of waterproofing the foundation is to protect. The fact is that concrete, no matter how prime it may be, is designed for a limited number of freezing cycles.The internal humidity of the screed reduces this quantity in equal proportion. Since with every freezing the foundation with internal moisture is destroyed at accelerated rates. Insulation cuts off water sources. The operational period is increasing. The second serious trouble with which waterproofing fights is the formation of mold and fungi. Their environment is created by high humidity. Of course, without proper protection.

    Nodal moments of water cut-off from concrete

    During capital construction, methods for waterproofing concrete screed were developed:
    • Trenching with ruberoid.
    • Addition of water repellent additives to cement mortar.
    • Treatment of the visible part of the foundation with spent fuel.
    • Laying of roofing material on top of the screed.
    • Application of bitumen materials.
    Looking ahead, I will say that of the above methods I have not applied everything. Although I knew that high-quality protection works only in the complex: - Attaching sheets of roofing material to the inside of the formwork and placing it on the bottom of the trench, ensure minimal contact with groundwater. Although it is still present.I did not do such manipulations for two reasons:
    • On my construction site, the primer lies deep, and the soil consists of sand.
    • The second reason is more trivial. It lies in the desire to save money, without buying, as it seemed to me, the extra meters of roofing material.
    • I used concrete additives in the form of liquid glass. The result did not keep itself waiting. Water repellency manifested.
    The main thing is to consider the proportion. I added 2% liquid glass from the total batch volume. With a larger proportion, concrete freezes within an hour. The nuance of the work lies in the heterogeneity of the mixes, as well as the speed of concrete preparation. I think you understand what I mean. However, I have not experimented with liquid soap. - Impregnation with used engine oil is used not only for waterproofing, but also to eliminate insects that nest in concrete pores. This refers to ants whose colonies on the site are apparently invisible. My neighbor processed it for this very reason. I again did not. Although impregnation does create a water-repellent layer that protects from rain. - I’ll dwell on the last two points,because they are the subject of my story. It is about laying roofing material on top of the foundation and the use of bitumen mastic. I did not use bitumen. But he acquired a set of two materials working together. It is bitumen mastic and roofing material glued to it over the screed. Protection is trouble-free. But the technology was not without surprises. About them further.

    Overview of basic materials for waterproofing screed

    What I knew about them at the time of using the materials. The roofing material is roofing paperboard. It is impregnated with oil products. In particular, bitumen. And in two layers: 1. The inner one is soft bitumen. 2. External - refractory. To increase the strength of the use of external powder. The advantages of this product are:
    • Reliability.
    • Durability.
    • Self-sustainability compliance.
    • Provides waterproofing and vapor barrier.
    Roofing material is not without drawbacks:
    • He is afraid of direct sunlight. Therefore, requires finishing plaster. Although not always.
    • The material located in the ground is protected with asbestos cement sheets. Not always, either.
    • Ruberoid does not tolerate caking.The problem is solved by storing in an upright position.
    A few words about the varieties of the product. There are roofing and lining material. They differ in density: 1. Lining has an indicator of 300 g / m2. 2. More dense roofing - 350 g / m2. The marking of the RPP is deciphered as a ruberoid lining. It's smooth. The PKK is a roofing material. He with a sprinkling. Personally, I had a choice between RPP and RPP (o). The letter in brackets means lightweight. It is used not only on concrete bases, but also on roofs, where light weight is in priority. I chose without the letter O. Among the bitumen mastics, I chose the cold version under the brand name Aquamast from TechnoNIKOL. The line of these mastic is intended for domestic use. Differences from the professional series, most likely there. But I worked with this material for the first time. I will say this, I liked it:
    • Mastic is easily smeared on concrete.
    • It has a good adhesive effect.
    • Does not emit an unpleasant smell . Although all the work was done on the street. Among the minuses, I highlight those that I could not cope with because of inexperience:
    • Mastic gets very dirty. You need to be careful or wear protective clothing,which is not a pity.
    • Long drying. In the open sun, it lasts a day, but under ruberoid, the drying time is several days. It depends on air temperature and humidity.
    • Does not tolerate contact with water. It was my poor experience. About him further.
    Mastic consists of petroleum bitumen with a solvent. For more curious builders, I will list the technical characteristics of the product to cover the foundation:
    • The bond strength is 0.1 MPa. This applies to concrete, metal, wood.
    • Water absorption per day 2% by weight.
    • Water resistance is positive. The conditions for time and pressure are 72 hours and 0.001 MPa, respectively.
    • The proportion of nonvolatile substances from 75 to 90%.
    • The temperature of use is from -10 to +40.
    • The layer dries day. My observations confirm a longer drying time.
    Do-it-yourself foundation waterproofing
    The materials I purchased were fresh, free of defects. This is the main question when choosing even expensive building material.

    Technological process of waterproofing the strip foundation

    Insulation by means of roofing material is divided into horizontal and vertical cutoff.From the name it is clear that the vertical protection is attached to the inner side of the wooden formwork. I will miss her description because I didn’t. Although this is not difficult:
    1. The required size of the ruberoid flaps is measured.
    2. The strips are cut off taking into account overlaps.
    3. Are fastened to wood on a construction stapler.
    Horizontal gluing of roofing material on mastic is of more interest. A construction tool is needed for work.


    • A hard brush for cleaning a concrete surface.
    • Gloves. li>
    • Metal spatula.
    • Painting brush.
    • Stick for stirring mastic.
    • Knife for cutting roofing material
    Waterproofing the foundation with your own hands And now comments. As I was mistaken in something, having prepared tools initially. Brush with stiff bristles definitely needed. Otherwise, dust will have to be swept away with a hand, grass or something else. You can not do it this way. Without gloves, too, can not do. But accuracy is important, as the mastic is strongly smeared. I had low hopes for the metal spatula, but it turned out to be the main tool. The main thing that the thickness of the metal was not less than 1 mm.An obligatory condition for working with cold bitumen was the second spatula for removing excess black stretch material from the first spatula.
    Foundation waterproofing with your own hands
    Waterproofing the foundation with your own hands I made a mistake with a brush and in vain it smeared. The brush is not suitable for such works. And I had to throw my own. The stick was also not a good idea, since the mastic was not stirred. As for the knife, I will say the following. The usual clerical knife cuts the roofing felt in one pass. Although there are more advanced models of blades with a curved tip. They are more convenient. I also used an improvised hard platen to press the material in.
    Foundation waterproofing with your own hands
    And after a mistake related to weather conditions, I used a building hair dryer to heat and dry the concrete surface. And now I turn to small instructions for laying protection on the foundation. Let the short description induce novice masters to their own trials and mistakes.


    • Here it is impossible to make mistakes in the sizes of segments of bituminouscardboard.
    • It is necessary to correctly mark the overlaps. Do-it-yourself waterproofing the foundation
    • After cutting all the shreds, proceed to applying mastic. axis. This is an insurance against jumping off the material from the trowel. Do-it-yourself waterproofing the foundation You can apply on concrete in several ways:
    • A lot on distributed areas with further spreading.
    • Little by little. But, doing this consistently, creating a thin layer. Do-it-yourself waterproofing the foundation
    • You do not need to overdo it with the layer thickness. As the manufacturer himself warns that the layer will not dry or will flow when the air temperature is high.
    • Next, the sheets are stacked one after another.
    Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation
    And now for the errors.

    Waterproofing errors

    During work, it started to rain. Part of the surface of the basement with applied mastic wet. Bitumen just spread in the water.I did not expect this. That is, he treaded across the wet area. I fixed the position by drying with the help of a building dryer. But this is also not the best option. With such an error, the work should be stopped before the time of natural drying of the concrete. But I decided to take a chance by drying the surface. Then, glued a piece of ruberoid. The layer dries very long. Fortunately, the month was hot. Among other minor errors I single out:
    • Incorrect cutting of roofing material. I wanted to save money, but it turned out the opposite.
    • Disposal of a paint brush. She, too, was worth the money.
    • Inaccuracy, because of which he dirtied his gloves.
    But in all of the above, there are fewer troubles than in neglecting the foundation waterproofing installation complex . It is impossible to achieve high-quality protection if you do not apply underground insulation, as well as impregnation with spent fuels and lubricants. This I say on the basis of personal experience.


    A practical builder will have a reasonable question, is it permissible to issue a responsible site of waterproofing? For me, the answer is simple. Yes and no. In the first case, the reasons are as follows:
    • This is my first experience without help.
    • The area of ​​the house and the volume of concrete pouringare relatively small for significant monetary costs.
    • The load on the foundation is small.
    • The groundwater table is deep.
    The second answer involves waterproofing technology, worked out for decades. It is being improved only in terms of novelties among construction materials. But using a single horizontal layer does not completely protect. And the complex is a guarantee of durable operation without problems.

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